Coffee Break

For 3 weeks while G and I were taking Spanish lessons, these two words were music to my ears.  From 10 to 10:30 am, we were able to grab a snack from the ladies who set up shop at the Spanish school next to ours.  My Spanish teacher very quickly discovered my love of food, so we spent a good deal of time discussing it.  She shared with me the ‘snack’ tradition in Guatemala.  My favorites were the tostadas with beans, guac, cabbage and salsa or a taco stuffed with potatoes and covered with the same stuff.  Tostadas and tacos are different then their Mexican counterparts.  The Guatemalan tostada starts with a thicker and crunchier fried corn tortilla.  The Guatemalan tacos are actually rolled up and then fried.  George usually opted for a bread roll (pan) with a chile relleno, guac, beans, hot sauce and cabbage.  For something sweet, he’d grab a rellenitos de plátano (small balls of mashed plantains filled with sweetened black beans, fried and sprinkled with sugar). Another favorite snack was the corn on the cob.  We preferred ours with salt, but the locals smothered them with all kinds of condiments including ketchup.  Truth be told, I kept my distance from the loaded down cobs of corn.

Lunchtime is typically the most substantial meal in Guatemala.  Some local restaurants would have pots of stews sitting in the entrance, which was almost impossible to pass once you caught wind of the smell.   Without fail, they would have ample delicious soups and salads as well for me to try.  George usually opted to try as much meat as possible.  As many of you know, I don’t eat meat and therefore cook primarily veggie food.  If G doesn’t have a big chunk of meat at least every second day, he’s convinced that his body needs meat asap and that he couldn’t possibly carry on.  Eating a big meal at lunch worked out well for both of us, because I could cook veggie for dinner without any complaints.

One of the dishes that I really enjoyed was vegetarian pepian.  The dish almost tastes like an Indian curry because you begin by toasting spices in a dry pan.  I also highly recommend the panaderias (bakeries) in Guatemala – plenty of fresh bread and sweets to choose from.

G and I celebrated the completion of our Spanish classes with some frozen bananas dipped in chocolate and covered with nuts followed by a few too many Quetzalteca + sprite.

 

A proper shoe shine

The cobblestone streets in Antigua did a number on my boots. I stopped to get a quick shoe shine before leaving. The gentleman told me it cost 3 GTQ (0.39 USD). He did such a thorough job, I gave him 10 GTQ.

 

Pacaya Volcano

Today we took a quick tour up the Pacaya Volcano.  Pacaya is about an hour and a half drive south from Antigua and is one of 3 active volcanoes in Guatemala.  From the top of Pacaya we could see Fuego (active as well), Acatenango and Agua.  The three volcanoes are situated in a circle around Antigua.  Fuego has been casting big plumes of smoke almost every day and had a big night lava eruption our first week in Antigua.  Impressive!

A shuttle came to pick us up from our apartment at 6am.  After an hour and a half driving we made it to a small mountain village on the outskirts of Pacaya.  We were about to hike 5miles up the volcano.  The trails were made of fine crushed volcano rocks and lots and lots of volcano dust. The locals in the parking lot were insistent trying to sell a ‘taxi’ service (horse ride) up the mountain for Q100 (about $12 USD).  At first everybody in our group declined the taxi ride.  Nevertheless two kids on horses followed us up to mountain.  I guess they knew what usually happens … So, 10 minutes in the hike one of the girls gave up and hopped on a horse.  Next was … Teresa :).  Well, in her defense, the second kid was walking right behind her for 35 minutes and asking her more or less every 20 seconds “Taxi?”,  “Chika, taxi… ” ….  I think T eventually hopped on the horse just to get him to stop bugging her :).

We made it close but not all the way up the volcano (did not climb to the crater since it is dangerous).  By the way there was a huge plume of smoke that shot up in the sky while we were right under the volcano.  At the end of the trip we crossed a 2 year old lava flow to a place where superheated gasses were coming from the ground.  It took only a second for a bunch of dry sticks to get on fire after our guide tossed them under the rocks at that spot.  We finished the day with roasting marshmallows on the hot gasses before heading back.

 

Antigua, Guatemala

Today makes two weeks since we arrived in Antigua.  Both Teresa and I are totally loving our experience here.  We are taking Spanish classes in the mornings and the afternoons are a mix of homework and activities around town.  We rented a small flat at the end of town with a small kitchen and a kick ass rooftop deck with a view of all three volcanoes around.  One of the volcanoes is active and regularly puts a show spewing lava and smoke high in the sky.

Here are a few pictures from Antigua for a taste of what are our days like.  I will be adding more posts for Antigua since there is so much stuff around here.   The town is absolutely beautiful.

Family and friends have been asking to put pictures on the site from our last month and a half of travel.  We will be doing that in the next week or so.  I will be adding posts with older dates to keep events in order so look for new posts prior to this one.  We hit some really cool places to make it down to Antigua so stay tuned.