Coffee Break

For 3 weeks while G and I were taking Spanish lessons, these two words were music to my ears.  From 10 to 10:30 am, we were able to grab a snack from the ladies who set up shop at the Spanish school next to ours.  My Spanish teacher very quickly discovered my love of food, so we spent a good deal of time discussing it.  She shared with me the ‘snack’ tradition in Guatemala.  My favorites were the tostadas with beans, guac, cabbage and salsa or a taco stuffed with potatoes and covered with the same stuff.  Tostadas and tacos are different then their Mexican counterparts.  The Guatemalan tostada starts with a thicker and crunchier fried corn tortilla.  The Guatemalan tacos are actually rolled up and then fried.  George usually opted for a bread roll (pan) with a chile relleno, guac, beans, hot sauce and cabbage.  For something sweet, he’d grab a rellenitos de plátano (small balls of mashed plantains filled with sweetened black beans, fried and sprinkled with sugar). Another favorite snack was the corn on the cob.  We preferred ours with salt, but the locals smothered them with all kinds of condiments including ketchup.  Truth be told, I kept my distance from the loaded down cobs of corn.

Lunchtime is typically the most substantial meal in Guatemala.  Some local restaurants would have pots of stews sitting in the entrance, which was almost impossible to pass once you caught wind of the smell.   Without fail, they would have ample delicious soups and salads as well for me to try.  George usually opted to try as much meat as possible.  As many of you know, I don’t eat meat and therefore cook primarily veggie food.  If G doesn’t have a big chunk of meat at least every second day, he’s convinced that his body needs meat asap and that he couldn’t possibly carry on.  Eating a big meal at lunch worked out well for both of us, because I could cook veggie for dinner without any complaints.

One of the dishes that I really enjoyed was vegetarian pepian.  The dish almost tastes like an Indian curry because you begin by toasting spices in a dry pan.  I also highly recommend the panaderias (bakeries) in Guatemala – plenty of fresh bread and sweets to choose from.

G and I celebrated the completion of our Spanish classes with some frozen bananas dipped in chocolate and covered with nuts followed by a few too many Quetzalteca + sprite.

 

A proper shoe shine

The cobblestone streets in Antigua did a number on my boots. I stopped to get a quick shoe shine before leaving. The gentleman told me it cost 3 GTQ (0.39 USD). He did such a thorough job, I gave him 10 GTQ.

 

The most beautiful lake in the world

That was one of the many things I read about Lago Atitlan.  I was skeptical, but the lake didn’t disappoint.  The lake was our last stop with my parents.  Time to relax.

We got to the villa I had booked around 5 pm.  If you recall, we left Semuc Champey at 6:30 am.  We were for the most part distracted by getting the truck into the garage.  This took us the better part of an hour.  There was however time to take in the picturesque view.   Lago Atitlan is surrounded by 3 volcanoes.   Imagine this view framed by floor to ceiling windows and you’ve about got it.  Mom was giddy with excitement.

After all the driving, we took the last 3 days pretty easy spending our time exploring the local villages, flying around town in the tuk tuk taxis, and taking advantage of the hot tub and sauna.  G and I also had the pleasure of celebrating Mom’s birthday with her, although Dad did have the satisfaction of reminding me in front of her.  Classic Charlie Batten.

The lake is serene.  There is also plenty of  culture, hiking and boating to keep you busy.  We also heard rumors that you can kite board on the lake.

All and all, we had a great time with the parents.  And for all my worrying, they were troopers the entire trip.  Thanks mom + dad!

PS The submerged buildings in some of the shots are a result of the lake rising.  The lake is in a crater and doesn’t drain.  Each rainy season means the water level rises a little.  You’ll also notice a handful of shots from a local weaving collective.  All of the dyes they use are organic and made from local flora.

 

 

“…the road was worth it – right?”

Semuc Champey was the third stop on our little adventure through Belize and Guatemala with my parents.

 

It took us literally all day to drive from Tikal to Semuc Champey.  The day started with a lot of gravel road and potholes, the middle was mostly decent highway (with the exception of the cra cra chicken bus drivers), and we ended the day with a steep, rough, narrow road into the Semuc Champey valley.  I admit, I didn’t look at the topography of Semuc Champey before compiling my plan.  The owner of the hotel in El Remate (Tikal) had compared the drive into Semuc Champey to driving into the belly of the earth…you just go down and down.

We never did find the hotel I booked.  Put a sign up would you Utopia.  I felt anxious with no secured accommodations for the night, but we finally checked into a quaint little hotel near the park.  George and I were able to camp and the parents got a Spartan little casita (1 bed, no electricity after 11 or so, and cold showers).  The following day, we visited the turquoise pools of Semuc Champey.  There were truly beautiful and great for a dip.  Our photos don’t do them justice.

We had a little euchre tournament in the afternoon after visiting the pools (dad + g, mom + me).  G and mom were definitely the most passionate players, but G didn’t manage to deliver on his threats.  After a slow start, mom and I took the last two out of 3 games and are consequently reining champions.

That evening, I tried to force dad to admit the drive was worth it for some personal gratification.  He didn’t budge.  I do think the drive was worth it though, no matter what dad Batten says.

The following day we left at first light for the 10+ hour drive to Lago Atitlan.  I had booked some more cush accommodations on the lake to end the visit on a high note.